Preparation

Za'atar is the spice blend I wish I'd grown up with. It's traditionally thyme, sumac, sesame seeds, and salt—but every family has their own ratio. When you fry catfish in it, the sesame seeds toast, the herbs crisp up, and the sumac's tang cuts right through the oil. It's fried fish that somehow tastes bright and fresh.

Preparation

1. Soak catfish in buttermilk for 30 minutes to 2 hours. This mellows any muddy flavor and tenderizes the fish.
2. Mix cornmeal and za'atar in a shallow dish. Taste it—you should taste thyme and sesame clearly. If it's too mellow, add more za'atar.
3. Heat 2 inches of peanut oil in a cast-iron skillet or Dutch oven to 350°F. Use a thermometer; temperature matters.
4. Dredge fish in the za'atar cornmeal, pressing to adhere. Shake off excess and carefully lower into hot oil.
5. Fry 3-4 minutes per side until deeply golden. Don't crowd the pan or the temperature will drop and you'll get soggy fish.

Drain on a wire rack, not paper towels (which make the bottom soggy). Hit with a little flaky salt while still hot. Serve with lemon wedges and hot sauce—or keep it Turkish with a side of yogurt spiked with garlic and dill.