Printed September 1, 2026
Victorian Savoury Ices: Frozen Parmesan Palate Cleansers
These savory frozen desserts shocked and delighted Victorian dinner guests between courses. Made with cheese, vegetables, or even meat essences, they represent the era's fascination with culinary theatrics.
Ingredients
- 2 cups heavy cream
- 1 cup whole milk
- 1 cup finely grated Parmesan cheese
- 4 egg yolks
- 1/2 teaspoon salt
- 1/4 teaspoon white pepper
- 1/4 teaspoon ground mace
- Pinch of cayenne pepper
- Fresh chives, finely minced, for garnish
Preparation
In the grand dining rooms of Victorian England, dinner was a theatrical performance of culinary excess, often featuring a dozen or more courses. To prevent palate fatigue and aid digestion between rich dishes, hostesses served 'savoury ices'—frozen confections made with cheese, vegetables, or concentrated meat stocks rather than sugar and fruit.
The legendary Victorian cookbook author Agnes Marshall championed these creations in the 1880s and 1890s, publishing recipes for Parmesan ice, cucumber ice, and even oyster ice. While the tradition faded in the 20th century as multi-course dining declined, these ices represented an era when dinner was both social spectacle and scientific experiment. The shock of cold, savory cheese hitting the palate between courses was designed to awaken and refresh.
Preparation
- In a medium saucepan, combine the cream and milk. Heat over medium heat until small bubbles form around the edges and the mixture is steaming but not boiling.
- In a separate bowl, whisk together the egg yolks, salt, white pepper, mace, and cayenne until smooth and slightly pale.
- Slowly pour about 1/2 cup of the hot cream mixture into the egg yolks while whisking constantly to temper the eggs. Then pour the egg mixture back into the saucepan with the remaining cream, whisking continuously.
- Cook over medium-low heat, stirring constantly with a wooden spoon, until the mixture thickens enough to coat the back of the spoon, about 5-7 minutes. Do not let it boil or the eggs will scramble.
- Remove from heat and immediately stir in the grated Parmesan cheese. Whisk until the cheese is completely melted and incorporated.
- Strain the mixture through a fine-mesh sieve into a clean bowl to remove any lumps. Press plastic wrap directly onto the surface and refrigerate until thoroughly chilled, at least 4 hours or overnight.
- Churn the chilled mixture in an ice cream maker according to manufacturer's instructions until it reaches a soft-serve consistency. Transfer to a freezer-safe container and freeze for at least 2 hours until firm.
- To serve in Victorian fashion, scoop small portions (about 1/4 cup) into chilled cordial glasses or small bowls. Garnish with a sprinkle of minced chives. Serve immediately between dinner courses as a palate cleanser.
